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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.